Cuba, where the soil is red !

We left Havana for a few days in the wilderness.

Heading to the west of the island, a place classified as a Unesco heritage site since 1999: Vinales in the heart of the "Sierra de los Organos" has become one of the most touristic cities in Cuba!

Located 30 km from Pinar del Rio, Vinales is known worldwide for its tobacco fields and its unique relief created by mogotes or sugar loaves.

These mountainous limestone mounds, hollowed out by countless caves, sometimes reaching 300m in height, are covered with thick vegetation.

From early morning, the desire to discover this rather unusual landscape takes us along beaten paths, bordered by tobacco fields and dotted with drying sheds or "casas de tabacco". These are triangular wooden buildings, with a palm roof, which seem lost in the middle of the plantations.

The soil is red and fertile and the climatic conditions are ideal for growing tobacco.

Laurence and I decide to escape the mass of tourists and take a few random paths. We let ourselves be dazzled by this landscape and we put our intuitive radar into action.

My eyes are drawn to a palm-roofed farmhouse, lost in the middle of this red and green expanse. We approach, then we see a woman in the courtyard. The dogs have already signalled our presence.

Our eyes meet, she smiles at me, inviting me in. We immediately start talking about the plantation and her work. She opens the door of her workshop for a cigar making demonstration.

Almost all the production is sold to the state, but the farmer has the right to keep some of it: 10% can be sold to tourists.

She explains the important stage of maceration where each person has their own preparation to moisten the leaves and give them flavours (honey, rum, and sometimes vanilla) before fermentation.

For the demonstration, she chooses honey-scented leaves. She takes the time to carefully roll the leaves so that we can really admire her careful work. She becomes serious and concentrated.

I notice that even in the deep countryside, Cuban women still have perfectly manicured nails.

She lights the cigar and Laurence starts to smoke with her. The conversation changes, she tells us about her life as a woman and we share anecdotes, we laugh: a little moment of exchange and sharing.

Then she invites us to have a coffee, made in the traditional way with seeds from her father's small farm, located a little higher up.
This wooden house, made of clay, without windows, with simple openings is magnificent. It is a return to the past: the old-fashioned kitchen with its wood stove, the small coffee grinder, 2 rocking chairs to savour this delicious beverage… We watch the chickens pecking in freedom and listen to the rooster crowing (there is no time for the Cuban rooster!). We have a majestic view on the valley. That's happiness!
The smells mix: the humid nature, the flowers of the garden, the banana trees planted next to it and the pig in the pen give a unique perfume to this place. When I close my eyes, I can still see the scene.

We set off again, this time on the other side of the valley to have lunch in a small family restaurant, perched on the heights.
In order to digest well (the meal was delicious but copious), we decide to walk back to Vinales.
Of course, we are not equipped with the old "backpacker's guide", so we rely on our natural compass and try to find our way…
We take the only path that goes down. The vegetation is luxuriant, the mogotes in front of us and the declining sun offer us a perfect warm light!

It is easy to reach the fields of crops. There are several paths (some are even very muddy) but we let ourselves be guided.
Laurence strolls and takes time to take pictures, I walk in front, I think this place is worthy of a movie set. It's calm, peaceful, rejuvenating.
I am amazed by all this beauty. This subtle mix of wilderness and traditional agriculture, in perfect harmony, is an example to follow.
There is a natural balance that Cuban farmers have managed to preserve perfectly.

There is no one on these roads; but in the distance I see a man ploughing the land, helped by his oxen. Here everything we eat is harvested and raised on the spot.
The setting sun offers us a postcard landscape, but I suddenly wonder if we will arrive before nightfall? I am already considering the possibility of sleeping in one of these barns.

And suddenly, like a transmission of thought or a stroke of fate… a man on horseback, straight posture, cowboy hat, moustache and cigar in his mouth comes down a path.
I didn't believe in Prince Charming any more, but here he appears…!
No wonder, since we are in the middle of a cuba-Hollywood set!
I look at him. He looks at me. Then he smiles at me. I then dare to say to him a little shyly: "We are still far from the village? "
Still smiling, he looks at both of us. Laurence had just joined us.
"How about a taxi ride home? "
I look at him with wide eyes, looking astonished.
"Can you ride a horse?
"Er, yes, yes!"
"Well, one in front and one behind! "
Laurence and I look at each other and smile. The complicity is there, and off we go.
I ride in front, a bit tight on the saddle (I remind you that we share it with 3 people).

But this adventure, unexpected and unhoped-for, is grandiose. I continue to admire the sunset. It must be said that on horseback it is even more beautiful!
I feel good, in symbiosis with the present moment, once again, another moment of happiness!
Finally, we arrive just before nightfall to finish the day dancing salsa under the stars of Vinales, in the only open air disco of the village.

A roadtrip in Cuba.

Myriam.